We returned home from Bali, Indonesia yesterday morning after a red eye. Great 8 days in a third world country.
We were greeted at the airport with a sign warning of the death penalty for drug smugglers onto the Hindu island. 3 porters quickly descended upon us to help us with our 3 roller bags. After rolling them about 50 feet, they held out there hand for a tip. Already, I was shaking my head for letting them grab my bags. Oh well, as time went on I learned when and where to receive assistance.
The entire trip can be characterized as one big negotiation. Can I provide you tranport? Need a taxi? Can I arrange a driver? Would you like tickets to ….? This is all well and good as you try and figure out what the island has to offer, but can be annoying when you just want to head to the beach. One afternoon, Gwen sat and watched Alex and me boogie board with 4 women around her wanting to give her a manicure, pedicure, hair braid, massage, etc. Life is rough. She was too gentle in her refusal for the services.
Bali a beautiful country with beautiful people. They wear colorful sarongs, usually have a smile on their faces, and were overall incredibly polite. Tourism is king, and tourism has been down for the past several years since the Kuta bombings in 2002. Kuta is the main beach resort town in the south. Second to tourism is art. The balinese have developed thousands of artists in cloth making, wood carving, silver smithing, and stone carving. Villages were literally lined with shop after shop of their wares. Whole communities are dedicated to producing, for example, teak furniture. We stumbled upon such a community when cruising on the motor bike one day. Alex and I saw wood taken from log to furniture in open air workshops back in the rice paddies a few km outside of Ubud. In these areas, lots of little children would be at play in the fields, waving and smiling as we rode by.
The kids really got a kick out of all the differences between America and Indonesia. First, the dollar gets you 9000 rupiah. The fact a dragon wood carving cost 200,000 rupiah was hard to get their minds around. By the way, we bought the boys real swords. They were too cool and cheap to pass up. We’ve come a long way as parents. Each hotel had incredibly elaborate gardens full of tropical plants and fruits. There is a swimming pool or multiple at each, with pool side bars. Everywhere you look are intricate stone or wood carvings on the walls, floors and furniture. Nothing is plain. Especially not the food.
We ate very well. The indonesian dishes are full of flavor. Alex lived on nasi goreng the traditional fried noodle dish. It was a mainstay at the hotel buffet breakfasts. Fresh fruit was everywhere. We had many servings each day of fresh papaya, mango, watermelon (both yellow and red), and pineapple. Mango lassies were the kids usual dinner drink. We ate in nice italian restaurants with wood fired ovens, and ate noodles (Bakso) sold from a man on a motor bike for $.50. All the restaurants were open air, usually with thatched roofs with teak posts and framing, and full of plants and ponds and trickling waterfalls. Like I said, everything is elaborate and beautiful.
We stayed most of our time in Ubud, away from the beaches and in the heart of the artist community. They also happen to have a monkey forest carved out in town where the monkeys run wild. The kids loved it. The little primates were sometimes aggressive, even snatching bananas right out of the kids hands. One climbed all over Elli, who held it together on the outside, while she shivered with fear on the inside. I shooed it away, but was immediately met with growling and a big set of monkey teeth staring me in the face. It was not uncommon to find monkeys walking the streets like any local or tourist.
By the end of the trip, we were throwing out indonesian phrases, were savy at the markets, but still looked like the rich tourist with a pocket full of cash. It’s been 17 years since I first visited Bali with my girlfriend, now ex-girlfriend and wife. We couldn’t recognize much. The Hard Rock cafe now sits on the beach in Kuta. We very much enjoyed our time walking the streets, lounging by the pool, and getting cheap massages. I’m glad we experienced it again.

